Bright red and gold flags flutter in the bay breeze, rooftops are crowned with guardian dragons, the one-way streets are congested with tourists and residents alike pushing their way among honking cars and jamming the sidewalks. Restaurants send out mouth-watering scents through the open doors as dozens wait in line to buy dim sum or a quick meal. Market stalls are piled high with fresh vegetables, silvery fish, bins of ginger and ginseng. Strings of roast duck and slabs of beef decorate the shop windows of the butchers. Incense drifts out from the back of stores specializing in paper and other traditional gifts. The city glows with a warm yellow light as the sunset fades unseen. The evening is mild and there is no wind. Chinatown's youth gather on the streetcorners to chat and laugh.